United Colonies Navy Ship Pack: 0.4.1.5a.

Updated version. I retired the Devilfish and single-place Daggerfish in favor of a new light submarine built on the Standard Pattern. Various bugfixes and standardization. Nice and slick.


UPDATE: Fixed a really strange bug involving radio chat triggering everything on wifi channel 1, even though all wifi channels were accounted for. Odd stuff.

Snip, think I got it all worked out.

MaverickSTS wrote:snip

I can't tell, but try to make your engines pull from a junction box, if they are connected up to a battery, if that doesnt work try changing the "minimum voltage" to something like 0.1, minimum voltage just means at what ratio of power consumption to power production will a machine turn on.

Next up for the ballasts filling to quick, go to the navigation terminal, and change the NeutralBallastLevel, I've no idea how the numbers work but someone said that 0 still makes them fill to 25%, play around and see what works.

For the lights, regalis changed them a bit, theres now a tickbox when you click them named "IsOn", turn it on, otherwise it will need some sort of input to toggle it.

And lastly, the railgun angles, which are easy when you get the hang of them. Note you can start at 0 degrees (which would be where 360 is), but I've had trouble with that before, although I think that was just me. At any rate the way the numbers work is the same, it locks the angle it can turn at from X degrees, the first number, to Y degrees the second number. Where 0,360 or 360,720 would be a full spin.

The engine does run through a junction box, I'll try messing with voltages to see if that's the issue.

Thanks for the tip on lights, must have missed that box. Easy fix.

I'll play around with the rail gun some more, normally I just spit ball numbers until it gets somewhere I like it.

Appreciate the help. Will boot it up later today and see what I can do.

The railgun seems to work pretty well with angles 270,360, maybe 260,370 would also be alright

To make more sense you can also set negative angles.

Plymouth wrote:To make more sense you can also set negative angles.

I would avoid doing this, it can look fine in the editor but ingame I've known them to bug out

Rick wrote:

Plymouth wrote:To make more sense you can also set negative angles.

I would avoid doing this, it can look fine in the editor but ingame I've known them to bug out

Precisely, the guns will lock in the maximum and minimum numbers with no traverse between them, totally unusable.

The easiest way to set guns is to eyeball it: Set the spread to something small, like 45 degrees, and then just inch up both numbers until you have the right area. Then spread the numbers out until you get where you want. Don't forget to test in sandbox; you might give them an angle which can be used to blow pieces of the hull off... unless that's intentional.

Appreciate the help. I *think* she's done. I haven't really played in a long time (all of the servers I see are passworded, don't know which sites the players are coming from) so it might be missing some essential equipment. Let me know, or fix it yourself and shoot it to me, and I'll update it. Tried to cram all of the essentials in there.

I'm pretty sure the engine was borked because it was set to 30000 instead of 3000, extra 0 snuck in there somehow holy shit I'm retarded. Made separate alarms for the EFC and fire control, as well as a not-so-annoying alarm for the airlock + blue light indicating it's open. You'd also notice the boat sinking at that point though, just tells you the water is coming from the airlock instead of a rupture. The quick-close/open airlock button *should* only be able to be activated by the Captain ID card, same with Fire 1, to prevent easy griefing/flooding of the boat. It's pretty crazy how effective the EFC is, the first game I started up had an enemy right by the boat and it immediately punctured the hull. Hit EFC and the flooding was slowed down enough for me to start the reactor, get on a suit, grab a welder, and fix the rupture before the boat became fully flooded. Reactor is now set to startup automatically so that saves some time now.

Introducing the (fixed and hopefully fully operational) NR1
http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=082 ... 1328168162



Features
-Battery operated design, constant steady load on reactor despite system lineup changes.
-Emergency flood control (EFC) system for fast dewatering.
-Emergency fire system (Fire 1 = Pump, Fire 2 = Overhead doors) for when handheld extinguishers won't cut it.
-Quick close/open airlock and airlock drain buttons.
-*AUTHENTIC* red lighting.
-Airlock, EFC, and fire systems (Fire 1) have their own alarms (airlock alarm is a quiet beeping noise + blue light, the big siren is just for show). If an alarm is sounding, a system is still activated.

Operating tips
-DO NOT LET BATTERIES BECOME FULLY CHARGED
Due to the nature of circuits in Barotrauma, if any of the batteries become fully charged before the others, the panel supplying power to those batteries will short out. They have very high capacities, so this is an unlikely scenario, but in the case of very long games, follow this procedure to prevent blowing out any electrical panels.
1. Shut down reactor.
2a. Done. Let them drain power normally.
2b. Set all batteries to same charge rate.
3. Restart reactor.
If you start changing charge rates while the reactor is running, you risk blowing shit out.
*NOTE*
If panels do catch on fire because you don't follow procedure, activating Fire 1 without pushing Fire 2 after will flood the electrical enclosure and put the fire out. Then turn off pump and open doors to drain. There's ladders for getting up there, but fixing stuff will be tough, so I'd suggest touching down on a surface somewhere and purposefully filling the boat with water up until you can reach the panels. If the Captain ID is lost for some reason, hit Fire 2 and blast extinguishers in that bitch.

-FLOOD CONTROL BUYS TIME
If there's a breach, either from an impact or enemy, hit EFC immediately. It will greatly slow the inrush of water, allowing more time for repair and slow your descent. It's also useful for emergency blow type situations when you gotta get moving upward ASAP and either don't have time for using the navigation system or the navigation system is OOC.

-FIGHT OR FLIGHT
The railgun sucks and is barely useful. However, the boat is fast as fuck. If you're getting booty blasted by a bad guy, take over manual control and put that marker out as far as possible, you'll shoot out of there at a solid 40 knots or some shit. Be careful not to hit stuff tho.

EDIT:
Aw fuck I forgot to wire the remote airlock button to the alarms god dammit. Oh well, the alarms are primarily to keep griefers from popping it open when leaving and nobody knowing until the boat is getting mad flooded.

United Colonies Navy Ship Pack: 0.4.1.5b.

Updated version. After experimentation with depth charges, I found the setup to be inadequate; lacking charge drift, timed fuses or proximity fuses, and noting that the regular unloaded charges do virtually no damage whatsoever, I made do: All charges have been swapped with nuclear ones, and multi-tube launcher systems now have a chain-fire delay computer allowing you to use the drift of the boat and delayed shots to spread charges over an area.